Mossy Miles

There’s something about the Romanian mountains that feels both wild and welcoming. Time seems to slow down, the air smells like pine and rain, and every trail has its own quiet story to tell.

This time, I went back to one of my favourite corners of the Carpathians: the Bucegi Mountains. I spent a weekend at Cabana Mălăiești, a place that always reminds me why I love hiking. Simple food, tired legs, music in the evening, and that feeling of being exactly where I’m supposed to be.

Romania’s stunning mountains

Romania has some of the most beautiful mountains I’ve ever seen. The Carpathians cross the country, more specifically the Southern Carpathians, and there are plenty of mountain ranges to choose from. The Bucegi range is one of them. It’s close to Bucharest and easily accessible by train. In about an hour and a half you can be in Bușteni, ready to start your next adventure.

Cabana Mălăiești — a hike destination close to my heart

Cabana Mălăiești is probably my favourite place to hike to in Romania, or at least one of them. If you plan to come to Romania for hiking, you’re in for a treat. The trails are incredibly well-marked and well maintained.

There are, however, bears in Romania, so it’s important to take precautions and follow the local guidelines before heading out. I haven’t personally seen a bear during a hike, but encounters are possible, and we need to know how to behave. Here’s a good resource: bear awareness.

If you visit the Bucegi Natural Park, remember to pay the visitor fee. It’s valid for three months and costs 10 RON (~€2.00). You can easily buy it online, and the money helps preserve the mountain.

A bit of history

Cabana Mălăiești lies deep in the Bucegi range. It was first built in 1882, making it the first mountain hut in Bucegi. Over time it has been destroyed and rebuilt after fires and avalanches. The current hut dates to 2007.

I always feel the history of this place when I visit. The magic is undeniable. You can also stay overnight, but weekends fill up quickly. The team opens bookings each Monday for the week ahead, and you can contact them by phone for reservations.

The cabin is open year-round and serves simple but tasty food. There’s no Wi-Fi, phone signal is weak, and payments are cash only. The bathroom is an outhouse, and there are no showers, but that’s part of the charm.

My weekend at Festivalul Floare de Colț

I spent a weekend at Cabana Mălăiești during the Floare de Colț Festival, which usually takes place in early August (this year, from August 8 and 9). I’ve been to Cabana Mălăiești quite a few times, but this was the first time I slept there in my tent, just beside the cabin.

I took the train from Bucharest to Bușteni on Friday around 1 p.m. From Bușteni, I took a taxi from outside the station to Cabana Gura Diham, and from there I started my hike. I followed the red stripe trail and then switched to the red triangle trail.

The hike starts steeply for about 30 to 45 minutes, then continues with a mix of uphill, downhill, and a few flat sections. It’s challenging but pleasant, with stretches where you can catch your breath.

Trail note: This route from Bușteni to Cabana Mălăiești is closed during winter because of avalanche risk. If you’re visiting in winter, or hiking with children or beginners, I recommend starting from Râșnov instead. That route takes about three to four hours, climbs steadily but never steeply, and is much safer. The Bușteni route includes narrow paths, ladders, and sections with fixed cables to hold on to, which aren’t ideal for less experienced hikers.

Visiting the cabin in winter is also special. I went in January and felt like I’d stepped into Narnia. Whether you go through Bușteni or Râșnov, the hike to Cabana Mălăiești and the valley of Mălăiești is always worth it. There’s a magic to this place that stays with you!

Trail details (Bușteni to Cabana Mălăiești):

I arrived at Cabana Mălăiești at 6:30 p.m. and pitched my tent. A few tents were already there, and as the evening went on, more hikers arrived. Music started playing at the cabin, and we all gathered to listen under the mountain sky.

Saturday: the perfect circuit

Saturday, 9th of August, I left my things in the tent and set off on a longer hike. It felt so good not to carry a heavy pack. I followed the blue stripe trail through Valea Mălăiești, then turned left onto the blue triangle trail. The path went up through Brâna Caprelor to meet the red stripe trail, which took me to Vârful Bucșoiu. From there, I continued to Vârful Omu, the highest peak in the Bucegi range, where I stopped for lunch at Cabana Omu.

After lunch, I followed the red stripe trail toward Vârful Scara, then continued to Șaua Țigănești. From there, I joined the yellow stripe trail, which led me past Lacul Țigănești and all the way back to Cabana Mălăiești.

This loop is wonderful. You climb three peaks, pass a glacier lake, and walk through some of the most beautiful scenery in Bucegi. It’s one of my favourite circuits.

For navigation, I recommend using the mapy app, but remember to download your maps beforehand since there’s little signal in the area. The app allows you to download the entire map for one country for free.

After I got back, I had a simple dinner — a sandwich and some cake — then went to the cabin for a beer and more music.

Sunday: the way back

On Sunday, 10th of August, it was time to return to Bușteni. I packed up my things and hiked back with my heavy pack. This time, I took a route via Cabana Diham. I followed the red stripe trail and blue stripe trail from Cabana Mălăiești toward Râșnov and Cabana Diham. After a while, the path splits. The left trail (blue stripe) goes to Râșnov, and the right ( blue cross) goes to Cabana Diham.

After turning right, there’s a climb that lasts about 30 to 45 minutes. Once you reach Cabana Diham, the hard part is over. From there, follow the blue triangle trail down to Cabana Gura Diham. You can take a taxi (around 30 RON (~€5.90)) back to the Bușteni train station or walk the last 5 km along the road, though it’s not a very scenic route. I’d recommend the taxi.

Trail details:

I arrived back at Cabana Gura Diham, took the taxi to Bușteni, and then the train to Bucharest. Tired, happy, and completely recharged after another beautiful weekend in the mountains.

Every visit to Cabana Mălăiești feels like coming home to the mountains. The faces might change, and the weather might surprise you, but the spirit of this place never does. It’s always warm, wild, and full of life.

If you ever find yourself in Romania with a free weekend and a bit of curiosity, I can’t recommend this hike enough. Pack light, bring cash, and leave space for magic — it always shows up here!